my (little) Tokyo Fashion Week report

I have just come back from an exciting 5-day trip to Tokyo, which was filled mostly with fashion-related stuff, one of them being Tokyo Fashion Week. I was lucky enough to attend some of the shows as press, to see the details and atmosphere of the garments that a photograph cannot convey, and also to experience the queues, the street snaps, and the endless waiting for a show to start (which is in the end worth it, of course).
I unfortunately didn't get to see all the shows I'd got invited to, because I only arrived on the third day of TFW, and I was also quite busy running around exploring the city. (It was my first time in Tokyo, so I had a long list of places I needed to see.) Therefore, you should definitely check out all the collections  h e r e, as all I can offer here is a little personal experience (for me a valuable one, though).



...was my favourite. It was about textures and volumes rather than prints, which gets a little bit lost in the pictures unfortunately. I also liked the touches of menswear in the collection (pinstripe suit fabric, work uniform inspired overalls, trousers-shirt-vest combination). Sleek silhouettes with chunky knitted scarves, and furry socks in heels are definitely styling ideas I will borrow in the future.



...was menswear, but I still wanted a lot of the pieces that came out on the runway. It had the elegance and the rebellion of Brit rock, with big messy hair and suits with shirts not tucked in. They were band members and guys who smoke on the school's courtyard (if they come). The great thing was, though, that like I said before, I can imagine girls walking in the same clothes and rock (bad pun intended?) them.


photo (c) Discovered

A    D E G R E E    F A H R E N H E I T

...was good, but it was giving me too many flashbacks to works of other designers (Alexander McQueen, Yohji Yamamoto,...). I mean, it is common and completely fine that designers reference earlier works of others in their collections, but for me this didn't add much new to what had been done. I got really curious, though, about what the shape and movement of the dresses would look like without the thick black belts. And I really liked the row rainbow of coats at the end.


N E - N E T

...was what Japanese people call 'kawaii' (meaning cute, adorable). It was referencing anime, video games (or at least that's how I perceived the big geometrical animal heads), things that Japan is known for worldwide. But, there was the Alice in Wonderland twist to it (which I really liked), because the cute fairy tale creatures looked quite creepy in their glittery masks, and there were holes on the sides of their stockings.



...was showing at TFW for the first time ever, and I get really excited about new brands. It was like your typical menswear street collection in terms of shapes, but unlike it in terms of the details. I loved how the heart print, which would normally look a little disturbing, became quite cute in its embroidered form, yet still remained a little bit 'off'. The all-over wolf print was something so kitschy that it somehow worked.


T H E    D R E S S  &  C O.

...was not as young as the other collections. It was casual, and both the choice of pieces, and the styling had an emphasis on being wearable. There were some details, though, which added a little bit of and edge to it (all blacks, leather jackets, fur cuffs), and the only thing I was disappointed by was the choice of models. It's not that I hate white people, me being white and all, but I wanted to see models of other races as well. It's an issue of the fashion industry as a whole, but I was particularly surprised that at TFW, which is targeting the Japanese market, there were not even many Japanese models around. It's not hard to tell that there is a certain admiration for the 'white people look' ('small' face, tall nose, blue eyes, etc.) in Japan. However, I wish from now on, instead of this narrow ideal there would be a more diverse 'look' on show.


all photos above (c) Tokyo Fashion Week (unless stated otherwise)


The thing that caught my eye was how flowy and natural the pieces looked. All the designer work and thinking put into it seemed hidden, because everything looked as if it was simply meant to be that way. And I really liked how the flower print was recycled into a form of an abstract ink-like print. As a whole, it was feminine, but it had the nonchalance of menswear, too.



I was greeted by the words 'This is all embroidery. It's done each line at once.', which made me look closer and spend quite some time studying the perfect little flower detailing and trying to capture it in pictures. (The flower embroidery on a biker jacket combination was awesome, too.) The rest was quite impressive as well, for example embroidered 'fake' studs lining one of the shirt's collar.



I loved the concept. Unfinished, or in the designers words 'If you tried a little harder, it could be New York.'. I only noticed after having been told this that not only the New York embroidery, but also the tartan jacket looks quite undone, and the deer don't look quite as they normally should either. I was very fascinated by both the idea and by how great it all looked visually.




  1. beautiful photos!

    1. Thanks, although mine are only the photos from exhibitions, the show pictures are from MBFWT's official website.


leave a note.